The kitchen lights come on at half past four. By five, the charcoal is ready and the first pan of egg is hissing.
Mrs Tanaka has cooked breakfast at this ryokan since she was nineteen. She rolls each tamagoyaki in thin layers, a flick of the wrist at a time, and she has never written the recipe down.
Guests who book through us get a seat at the counter for the last batch, if they are up early enough. Most of them say it is the moment they remember first.